The Hilton Double Tree features a full breakfast starting from 3:30am each day. Wow so early! They cater for flight crews and a large contingent of mining workers that clearly like getting an early start. So we enjoyed a full on cooked breakfast to get the day started.
John accompanied me to the airport to make sure I got away without any issues. We arrived back at the Pearl Aviation hanger at 6:30am. I prepared for the flight, got clearance to startup and was on my way shortly after 7am. Today's flight, leg 5, was from Darwin, directly tracking to the South East over the Northern Territory, then tracking parallel to the Gulf of Carpentaria and then just across the State border into the beautiful state of Queensland, hopefully arriving at the town of Burketown about 615nm later.

I was soon leveled out at 9000 ft listening intently to the other aircraft ATC calls. After I was out of Darwin Tower's airspace, I was in touch with Brisbane Centre. From Brisbane Centre, Airservices Australia manages the airspace over the northern
half of Australia and asjacent Oceans, representing around five per cent of the world’s
total airspace. The system in Australia is quite different to other parts of the world I have flown in. Due to the extreme remoteness of the country, there is a strong emphasis on timing over way-points. It's somewhat similar in South-East Asia, but the controllers in Australia are a lot more concise and very pro-active in chasing you if you miss any expecting timings. This is definitely a good thing, but also requires a disciplined approach to planning and thinking ahead.
The flight to Burketown was slow due to a strong 20 knot headwind. I was only tracking about 145 knots over the ground, which meant my morning leg ended up taking a total time of 4 hours and 45 minutes from start-up to shut-down. The weather was clear but hot and windy. There was occasional clear air turbulence, especially as I approached the gulf. At once point I hit a strong wind-sheer and the aircraft leaped and the autopilot disengaged. Fortunately it soon subsided and I was promptly overflying the YARDD waypoint and preparing for my descent.
I listened to the advisory frequency just in time to hear another Cirrus departing to the South. Before I landed I was advised by Brisbane Centre to cancel my SAR-time at 4000 feet and nominate an approximate time I would be airborne again. I landed on runway 21 and backtracked to the apron. I had never been to such a remote airport before.
I looked up Burketown on Wikipedia the night before: "
Burketown is an isolated town and
locality in the far north-western
Shire of Burke,
Queensland,
Australia.
[3][4] It is located 898km west of
Cairns on the
Albert River and
Savannah Way in the area known as the
Gulf Savannah.
[5] The town is the administrative centre of the vast
Burke Shire Council. In the
2011 census, Burketown had a population of 201 people."
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On the ramp at Burketown |
None of the 201 folks of Burketown were there to greet me. I parked at the indicated park line for the refueling station. I walked up to the pump and inserted my credit card into the self service pump. Error. Tried again, another error. What to do? I turned on my cell phone, no signal (I figured out later my roaming accout was looking for the Optus network. Note to self, next time flying in remote Australia get a Telstra sim card). I walked around a bit, looking for any signs of life. I was impressed with the luxurious facilities at the terminal building.
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Burketown airport terminal |
I admired a splendid looking Royal Flying Doctor Service King Air parked on the other side of the ramp. These aircraft are the lifeline to lots of folks living in remote parts of Australia.
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RFDS King Air |
Just when I was about to break out the sat phone and call the number on the fuel pump, a women drove past and parked at the gate. I asked her is she knew who to contact for fuel. She said: "You're the second bloke today who's had problems with refueling. Don't worry, my partner takes care of the pump. I'll give him a call." She quickly pulls out her cell phone, which has a signal (she must be with Telstra), and calls her partner. "Hi love .... yes there's another chap out here with a plane that needs fuel ... yes ... ok ... bye. He'll be out here shortly.". I thank her and start to breathe easy again.
Ten minutes later the guy turns up and walks over to the pump. He over-rides the credit card system and helps me fill up. We just process the payment manually with a paper receipt system. Turns out his Mrs works at the local council and he works at the petrol station in town and takes care of fuel at the airport. I was very fortunate to have 1% of the town to turn up and help me out.
Now for leg 6, Burketown to Emerald. I'm now about 30 minutes behind schedule, and make a swift departure out of Burketown, calling out position reports on the advisory frequency. Once again I start climbing up to 9000 feet. Once I get above 4000 feet I switch frequency and contact Brisbane Centre. As I tune in I hear the controller speaking with an overflying airliner asking if they had heard N238JG on frequency. I immediately butted in and explained I was late departing sue to fuel pump issue and all was well again. Talk about pro-active search and rescue!
The gulf country is a vast wetland, full of rivers and swamps (and crocodiles, gulp!). I am keen to get to my next way-point overhead Normanton and turn to the Southeast towards my intended overnight destination of Emerald. I am also keen to get there before sunset and make a daylight landing. I am currently not current for night-time landings.
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Leichhardt River |
The afternoon heat across Central Queensland has started to form a thin layer of scattered cumulus clouds on my route which I can see looming ahead. By Singapore/Malaysia standards there are nothing to be concerned about. But as I get closer, they are larger then they look and I soon start bumping in and out of cloud constantly, which begins to become a little annoying.
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A line of cumulus cloud over Central Queensland |
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Bouncing through the clouds at 9000 feet |
So I request a higher altitude and am cleared to climb to FL120. This solves my problem for about an hour, but eventually the cloud tops are high enough for me to have to start weaving a track through the bumps. Due to my unfamiliarity with the oxygen system and with John not in the aircraft I am reluctant to climb any higher and request to descent to 8000 feet. Now I am clear of cloud but its still a bit bumpy passing through the afternoon thermals.
At a point about 2 hours out of Burketown I loose Brisbane Centre. Another aircraft contacts me and relays a message from Brisbane Centre that advises that I am now out of contact and I cannot be offered IFR services at this altitude. So I request to climb again to FL120 and will deal with the occasional bumps. Back at FL120 I am back in contact with Brisbane Centre and it somehow feels comforting to be in radio contact in this vast remote area of Australia. The bumps are manageable for about another hour, but are starting to get worse, and at one point I get a free windscreen wash and elevator ride and up to 12,500 feet by a rain cloud.
I am now less than 100nm from Emerald and advise ATC that I'd like to cancel IFR and descent down to 6500 feet and fly the rest of the leg VFR. The rest of the flight into Emerald is uneventful and I switch to the advisory frequency. A departing aircraft is calling its departure so I coordinate with the other pilot and arrange to do an overhead arrival to join the left-hand downwind for runway 24. I arrive about 30 minutes before sunset and park at the GA bay in-between a couple of old Cessna 182's.
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Parked at Emerald, departing Qantas Link in background |
I am pretty knackered and decide to leave the refueling until morning. The last leg of the journey tomorrow will be nice and short and not require such an early start. I strike up a conversation with another pilot on the ramp, Tom, who flies an Aero Commander twin for freight services to remote parts of Queensland. He kindly offers to give me a ride into my hotel, the luxuriously named Emerald Maraboon Motor Inn. I find a local pub and have a delicious chicken and avocado salad washed down by some Fifty Lashes Pale Ale.
That was a tough day, but hugely satisfying. I'm excited to be heading to my old home town in the morning and have a very restful long sleep that night.
For all the action from day 4, click
here.